news
Greenland – new climbs and “multi-dimensional“ trip of Eliza Kubarska and David Kaszlikowski
Published 09.09.2009
Polish couple – have been already elploring the area 2 years ago during unsupported expedition on sea kayaks. In 2007 they opened new route Golden Lunacy (VI,7a+, 2000m,OS, 1xAF) on the world‘s tallest sea-cliff Maujit Qaqarssuasii. During one month stay they „discovered“ virgin mountain massifs with untouched big walls.
2009 expedition was organized with dual objective :
1.to film Eliza’s documentary movie with sea kayaks, climbing and underwater pictures (with film crew). Professional production telling the story of travelers/climbers life, based on their solitary expedtion from 2007.
Trailer expedition 2007: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-vN66JLwSmI
2.second objective: to climb virgin peaks in Torssukattak Fjord area in the south-east part of the island.
After 2 weeks of shooting, Kaszlikowski and Kubarska – supported by Innuits, started climbing phase of the trip. In a course 2,5 (bivouac) days (5-6.08) they climbed „2 hobbits from the moon“ (ca. 800m, 6c max, OS) on the Marlulissat (Twins) peak standing directly over tiny village Aappillatoq . Its walls were unclimbed and this is the first route there. (Despite easy side of the peak is a popular objective among villagers).
Climbers were surprised by the positive feedback they received from enthusiastic villagers. They were climbing with the Innuit audience below, watching their headlamp lights even at night. Then – entering the village, they received many gifts and greetings („you are most famous in Greenland today!“) from grateful and astonished people.
After another 2 weeks of rain and waiting, David and Eliza moved to Torssukattak fjord to try „new“ peak standing in the left from famous giant Qaqarsuasii.
The whole interesting massif consists of 5 unclimbed mountains, with 500- 700m high walls, and difficult walking/climbing access terrain in lowest part.
They decided to climb front peak of the massif , 1200m high virgin cliff . The cliff is acccessible only from the water – so they started climb instantly after leaving the boat.
First day (17.08), they climbed easy part of the mountain (700m, 5a, 6c max) only to reach the headwall – the actual climbing part. Next day (18.08), they climbed it, opening new route (500m of climbing, 6b+, OS). They reached the peak in late evening, so rappels - to the ledge bivouac, then to the sea level - took them whole night, and next day.
They called „their“ peak in Innuit language – Qaqqaq Eqqaamanngilara (Forgotten Peak) No bolts were used during this ascent (only 2 for descent).
David: „Our new routes are relatively easy from technical point of view , but in my personal scale of risk – because I still cannot use english system ;-) – I would give them 8 out of 10. It was rather adventure climbing, with fantastic view of unclimbed peaks, huge whales, falling icebergs, and very rare group of hunting orcas below.“
During their stay, couple opened also short trad climbing routes around Appilattoq and filmed esoteric and risky iceberg and „underwater“ climbs (see gallery).
David Kaszlikowski’s coffee-table book „Greenland. The clash of the elements“. Which is planned as colorful story of his 2 expeditions,wildelife and Innuits, will be published in 2010. (first in polish then hopefully in other languages)
SPONSORS:
Expedition was supported by: VerticalVision Film Studio, Polish Association of Alpinism, Columbia Sportswear, Warmpeace, Geosystems and Tendon, Meindl, Marabut, Lhotse.
The expediton were also supported by Aappilattoq villagers , including Themo and Jacob Benjaminsen. Thanks for immense help !
More info:
POTENTIAL:
Despite tricky weather of south Greenland. This is the area of great potential, especially for hi-end mountaineering, and while the compact walls of famous Tasermiut fjord with its established routes are hard and „repeater friendly“, the fjords around Appillotoq are full of untouched 400-700m walls, demanding alpine logistics, often with complex descents.
CLIMBING SEASON: last 2 weeks of July and beginning of August (at least in last 3 years), thats the best climbing season here. Fjords are usually free of ice - so you can pass with the boat, August is often very rainy.
2009 expedition was organized with dual objective :
1.to film Eliza’s documentary movie with sea kayaks, climbing and underwater pictures (with film crew). Professional production telling the story of travelers/climbers life, based on their solitary expedtion from 2007.
Trailer expedition 2007: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-vN66JLwSmI
2.second objective: to climb virgin peaks in Torssukattak Fjord area in the south-east part of the island.
After 2 weeks of shooting, Kaszlikowski and Kubarska – supported by Innuits, started climbing phase of the trip. In a course 2,5 (bivouac) days (5-6.08) they climbed „2 hobbits from the moon“ (ca. 800m, 6c max, OS) on the Marlulissat (Twins) peak standing directly over tiny village Aappillatoq . Its walls were unclimbed and this is the first route there. (Despite easy side of the peak is a popular objective among villagers).
Climbers were surprised by the positive feedback they received from enthusiastic villagers. They were climbing with the Innuit audience below, watching their headlamp lights even at night. Then – entering the village, they received many gifts and greetings („you are most famous in Greenland today!“) from grateful and astonished people.
After another 2 weeks of rain and waiting, David and Eliza moved to Torssukattak fjord to try „new“ peak standing in the left from famous giant Qaqarsuasii.
The whole interesting massif consists of 5 unclimbed mountains, with 500- 700m high walls, and difficult walking/climbing access terrain in lowest part.
They decided to climb front peak of the massif , 1200m high virgin cliff . The cliff is acccessible only from the water – so they started climb instantly after leaving the boat.
First day (17.08), they climbed easy part of the mountain (700m, 5a, 6c max) only to reach the headwall – the actual climbing part. Next day (18.08), they climbed it, opening new route (500m of climbing, 6b+, OS). They reached the peak in late evening, so rappels - to the ledge bivouac, then to the sea level - took them whole night, and next day.
They called „their“ peak in Innuit language – Qaqqaq Eqqaamanngilara (Forgotten Peak) No bolts were used during this ascent (only 2 for descent).
David: „Our new routes are relatively easy from technical point of view , but in my personal scale of risk – because I still cannot use english system ;-) – I would give them 8 out of 10. It was rather adventure climbing, with fantastic view of unclimbed peaks, huge whales, falling icebergs, and very rare group of hunting orcas below.“
During their stay, couple opened also short trad climbing routes around Appilattoq and filmed esoteric and risky iceberg and „underwater“ climbs (see gallery).
David Kaszlikowski’s coffee-table book „Greenland. The clash of the elements“. Which is planned as colorful story of his 2 expeditions,wildelife and Innuits, will be published in 2010. (first in polish then hopefully in other languages)
SPONSORS:
Expedition was supported by: VerticalVision Film Studio, Polish Association of Alpinism, Columbia Sportswear, Warmpeace, Geosystems and Tendon, Meindl, Marabut, Lhotse.
The expediton were also supported by Aappilattoq villagers , including Themo and Jacob Benjaminsen. Thanks for immense help !
More info:
POTENTIAL:
Despite tricky weather of south Greenland. This is the area of great potential, especially for hi-end mountaineering, and while the compact walls of famous Tasermiut fjord with its established routes are hard and „repeater friendly“, the fjords around Appillotoq are full of untouched 400-700m walls, demanding alpine logistics, often with complex descents.
CLIMBING SEASON: last 2 weeks of July and beginning of August (at least in last 3 years), thats the best climbing season here. Fjords are usually free of ice - so you can pass with the boat, August is often very rainy.